Learn more about what the Brands & retailers won't tell you.

Reformulation talk...

The IFRA (International Fragrance Association)

Unfortunately, In a modern era's effort to make the small allergen pool of the population safe for the bigger masses (essentially a 'Safe than sorry' approach for everyone); Harsh fragrance regulations came into effect within the last 20 years in the EU (United Nations) where nearly all fragrances are still composed.

The SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety), IFRA (International Fragrance Association) & the ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) banded together to axe many precious naturals, and unique aroma chemicals in perfumery that have irritants to a small pool of the population.

To this day every year it seems another ingredient is banned as these chemical giants are auditing Chemistry materials on what seems like an unnecessary 'Woke movement' cancel parade. To play nice and to still get credibility for selling 'Safe' fragrances; all Designer perfumery houses have played with these giants to get full EU support of their product(s).

Between 2010-2022; The EU has now banned over 2,000 chemicals in the body, skin, hair, & fragrance industry. This massive chemical ban in body products is more than any other world region in history! In comparison, the United States has banned only 17 ingredients from body products made in the USA. Unfortunately for fragrance enthusiasts, a VERY small percentage of designers make their fragrances in America. By 2030; the EEB (European Environmental Bureau) anticipates over 5,000-7,000 ingredients to be banned in total.

Rules, reformulations, synthetic ingredients, cost-cutting, & keeping up with modern scent trends have altered, & reduced the performance of many popular favorites from the past. This is not a theory or paranoia, this is becoming more evident & informative in the fragrance community since the rise of fragrance communities and fragrance Vloggers. Since this rise; vintage formulas are hunted and highly sought after by hobby-ists.

Many are so used to newer compositions they have no idea what they are missing. vintage EDT formulas are well known to perform more like intense concentrated essential oil strength NICHE EDP's. Newer formulations of the modern age are said to perform like a end body spray with average performance but no character development.

DET Vs. DPG
A chemist in Germany did a gas chromatogram composition breakdown on a vintage & modern day version. It was found that companies used to use a solvent Diethyl Phthalate (DET) on vintage versions which was known to have a stronger bonding fixative effect on the skin. Modern day fragrances are replaced with Dipropylene Glycol (DPG). DPG is commonly used in lightly fragrance'd shampoos and DET is in home candles. Candle companies don't use DPG as the fragrance would immediately leave the base. Makes you think.

The death of Oakmoss
By far one of the most controversial and damaging IFRA regulations was the ban/limitations in natural Oakmoss. This popular ingredient is in near every legendary cologne; Davidoff Cool Water (Also reformulated), Aqua Di Gio (Also reformulated) Versace Eros (Also reformulated). Many are filled with weaker synthetics. Since Oakmoss rests in the base and has fixative effects fragrances also don't perform as well without it.

2022 Lilial ban
And if you thought your top / mid notes were safe. You're wrong. In 2021 The Scientific committee on consumer safety (SCCS) & the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) banned the note of lilial due to its reaction to sensitive skin (That's it?). They simply stated "It can sometimes act as an allergen." SOMETIMES? Lilial was a common note in modern perfumery. Lilial being a synthetic aromatic soapy aldehyde; it gave the self titled signature Versace Pour Homme it's sweet yet refreshing intense floral green odor. I don't understand this obsession with making sure the skin doesn't react to materials. Practically every face mask on the market 'Reacts' to your skin and in the long run - improves it's appearance. Doesn't skin strength train like muscles do?

Fragrance shelf life SCAM
Reformulations are one thing, it's something that just can't be avoided. One of the biggest scams on the other hand that can easily be avoided is the myth fragrances naturally 'Expire/go bad' due to time alone. I shake my head when I see the '24 M' (24 months symbol) on cologne bottles. 24 months!? WRONG. That is what we call gaslighting my friends.

Fragrances are not your local produce guys, they are a balanced chemist composition of naturals and fragrant chemical aromas full of preservatives. If that alone wasn't enough; that recipe is then preserved in a percentage average of 80% ALCOHOL. resulting in 'maybe' 10% natural ingredients to think 10% natural ingredients are up against and a threat against 90% chemical aromas, preservatives, and alcohol is a HUGE stretch. Alcohol based fragrances should be compared to 50-100 year old bottles of preserved and cherished wine. Like wine; fragrances in fact get better with age from the process of maceration. Maceration occurs when naturals soak in chemicals for extended periods of time making the juice richer and full of character. The more oxygen that gets into the bottle- the richer the fragrance gets- it's like you want them used and vintage. Fragrances are not fresh hand made cosmetics with no preservatives - quite the opposite.

Titanic
Fragrances were even recovered from the 1912 Titanic wreck with no sign of expiring. A perfumer perished in the wreck resulting in a sachet left behind on the BOTTOM of the ocean for over 100 years. This sachet contained mini corked bottles of fragrant oils and perfumery. In an artifact examination room upon recovery; amongst the death, muck, tragedy, and sorrow of solemn artifacts... the perfumery was opened up and by surprise brought the room to LIFE again! Aromas of beautiful fruits, florals, resins, and woods sourced from so long ago. The experience was so powerful to the scientist- it made a grown man cry.

Fragrances can be mishandled, left in sunlight, heat, and other neglectful extremes...but most certainly don't go bad from just the passing of time. I guess any myth works for these fragrance industries that want you coming in to buy their 'fresh' bottles.

The modern day scent
I say all that to say; modern day fragrances as a whole - are complete and utter trash... whether that be a brand new composed scent or a reformulation of a classic.

The modern recipe
Fake citrusy candy-like tops to lock you in, aromatic-mids to give you masculinity and bare minimal classic nostalgia, then a base gob-smacked with scratchy ambroxan / synthetic molecules completed with nauseating sweetness to ultimately gaslight you so don't notice how 'fake' the entire composition smells.

It's truly disgusting and nauseating what they release nowadays. You might as well wear your Halloween candy or household cleaner.

Fortunately,
In every generation...
...A guardian is born.
A guardian to make the world a better place.
Now, our memories are under siege.
You may wonder..."What is happening to my cologne, and why?"
"Is it all in my head?"...It's not.
Designer brands are gaslighting you.
Retail associates are lying to you.
They don't want you to know about me...
the Guardian of the Fragrances.
Vintage formulas taking asylum and preserved under my guardianship.
The awakening is growing, don't be left out.
Be a part of the fragrance safehouse and house a bottled refugee today.